On July 22, 2008, the FTC ruled that the word “cultured” may be used to describe diamonds grown in a laboratory. This declaration has split opinion among the jewelry community. On the one hand, purveyors of natural diamonds detest the use of the word “cultured” to describe lab grown diamonds - in fact, they have specifically fought against it. On the other hand, for growers of lab-made diamonds, the word carries a victory, as it has already crept its way into the pearl industry’s lexicon and lends an air of credibility to the artificial process of creating diamonds.

Cultured diamonds are grown from diamond chips through several different processes. Currently, two major laboratories grow diamonds: the Gemesis Corporation and Apollo Diamond Inc. The Gemesis Corporation grows colored diamonds through a process known as High Pressure/High Temperature (HPHT). Basically, they subject a diamond chip to intense high temperatures and pressures. This process closely mimics a diamond’s natural growing environment. In contrast, Apollo Diamond Inc. grows colorless diamonds through a process called Chemical Vapor Deposition: they place a diamond chip into a gas chamber and the gases react to the chip, causing the chip to increase in size and density.

The Gemesis Corporation has enjoyed success and is currently the leading manufacturer of cultured diamonds in the U.S. Through their ability to offer diamonds at a significantly reduced cost, and a smart marketing campaign focusing on this aspect, the Gemesis Corporation has successfully caught the attention of those with less disposable income – the youth market. Apollo Diamond Inc. has just opened their first retail store, selling colored diamonds at affordable prices.

Although diamonds have been created in laboratories since the 1950s, they have not been allowed to be called “cultured.” Thus, they have suffered from a perceived illegitimacy by the buying public. The FTC’s recent ruling will have far-reaching implications, as the purchasers of diamonds may now find cultured diamonds to be more worthwhile and practical. Not to mention, no one gets hurt producing cultured diamonds.

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